A Rosé by any other name... The New Aesthetics of Rosé Wines
Over the past 20 years, rosé wine has risen exponentially in popularity and production. According to Nielsen statistics, US rosé sales are rising 40% year on year, with global wine market share of rosé now at 10%. Considered in the past as a drink for those who do not usually consume wine, or as a ‘summer tipple’, with highly gendered connotations, rosé has certainly not attracted the same aesthetic interest as red or white wines. Yet now, established wine critics have changed their position on rosé wines. Their opinions have validated rosé as a wine with more complexity and value – both cultural and economic – than previously recognized by many wine consumers. There is also significant endorsement of pale, dry Provence-style rosé wine by celebrity ‘producers’ including actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie (Miraval, Provence), and rocker Jon Bon Jovi and his son Jesse (Hampton Water, Languedoc) who make their wine with Gérard Bertrand, ex-rugby star and owner of many châteaux, including Château l’Hospitalet, renowned for its summer jazz festival. However, it is the younger Millennials or Generation Y (people born between 1980-2000) who have really led the charge towards rosé. This paper explores the new aesthetics of rosé for each of these demographics, focusing especially on the visual perceptions (wine colour, packaging) and sensory appreciation (smell, tastings) of Milliennial consumers. In conclusion, I will present some preliminary findings of my research undertaken with an emerging category of wine consumers – Generation Z (aged between 18-25 years).
Jacqueline Dutton, University of Melbourne
ALERT:
photo bomb by your passionate-about-local committee
Queensland Grown & Made Rosé
Hi Jackie. A really interesting paper on one of the major shifts in wine taste over the last decade. The Australian consumption and production of rose has increased significantly and has been accompanied by a shift in the styles of rose produced in Australia from sweet lolly bombs, often produced from the least quality grapes, to paler and drier styles of rose.
At the same time the growth in the popularity of rose has happened at a time when there has been a relatively slowing down, and over the last few years, decline in the overall levels of wine consumption, according to a workshop I attended last year in Sydney by leading global wine market research company, Wine Intelligence. There has also been a relative decline in the amount of alcohol being consumed by younger age cohorts as they shifted to craft beer and to spirit based beverages.
There was also an indication that there has been a major generational shift in how younger age cohorts were engaging with wine and wine culture. They were finding that younger age cohorts had less technical knowledge of wine styles, wine regiosn and wine varieties but ironically rated their wine knowledge higher than baby boomers and gen X because, as digital natives, they knew that they could find the information online. Wine knowledge is not something you acquired as part of your cultural capital (winery visits, wine courses, masterclasses etc) but is accessed and experienced.
With this in mind, I am curious to see how the growing popularity can be understood? Is it popular because it is relatively cheap and easy to drink and suitable for the more casual and informal forms of hospitality that people under the age of 40 enjoy? Is it easier to purchase because it is a style of beverage where you don't have to worry about grape variety and location?
I look forward to reading the final paper in the future.
Really interesting observation - thanks Melanie. This is potentially part of the de-skilling/über-visualizing trend. And yes Chabrol is key to this argument - I must add him back into my references list - thanks for the reminder!
Hi Jacqueline. I want to have some Rose now :) I'm a red wine person.
What was most interesting for me is the millenial preference for rose you wrote about. You mentioned it because they don't have to be skilled wine drinkers (not sure if this is true for Gen z). I'm thinking more about this vis-a-vis anecdotes and theories on modern people's increase of visual use and reduced olfactory acuity. With senses also theorized to have knowledge forming roles, and this happening to the younger generations ("moderner") maybe this is a deskilling too? at least for wine-drinking cultures (thinking of Chabrol's consumption skills and technologies).
This paper just drew me in- such an interesting piece, It is only 10am Manila time but now I want glass or two of a rosé, which is impossible now as we are still under some sort of lockdown and liquor sales are only allowed later from 1pm- 6pm.
Truly fascinating to see how such a conservative and long established industry is being redefined by new generations. Im really interested to hear your findings on wine consumption during Covid I must say!
Thank you Catherine for engaging with both the Mateus and the Shakespeare - there are so many folds of irony in the rosé generation - and I've had to leave them out of this paper - but unabashed admiration of Mateus and lacking the cunning to be strange are certainly amongst them!
Seeking instantaneous pleasure is a signature of the Millennials, but we also have to recognise that seeking permanency - whether accommodation, employment or relationships - is not necessarily within the realms of possibility for many Millennials - or many people...
So why not arrosé with rosé? (arrosé = French = sprinkle with water, like thirsty flowers with a watering can. By extension = quench, like thirsty people with rosé)
Being also of the "any excuse to Mateus" generation, I am just as enchanted by the visuals of the current Rose revolution. Instantaneous, uncomplicated pleasure with no accumulated knowledge required has me percolating furiously re: aesthetic drivers. A fascinating peek into generational sociology, marketing and desire. Perhaps the Rose, unlike its more sombre cousins and like Juliet lacks the "cunning to be strange"? Oh for the days of instantaneous, uncomplicated pleasure :-)
This has been a tough paper to read as we are in the middle of 'dry July'! Normally spoilt for choice here on the Fleurieu Peninsula (SA). We are quite partial to Zonte's Footstep 'Scarlet Ladybird Rose', "... a mouthwatering tribute to the delicate critter that spends its days gobbling vineyard aphids."
Ah, Mateus Rose, th after dinner drop of my uni years and holder of many candles to light our way. What would Millenials and GFen Z make of its whoopee cushion shaped dark green bottle with prominent gold lable.
What a sassy paper...and sassy wine! Love the three aesthetic drivers. I'll use the tip to appeal to my Gen Y and Z audiences.
Great paper and really interesting observations about generational differences. I have a Gen Z at home who is inclined to drink a rose sometimes but prefers red and never white and I wonder what the fate of white wine is... Are we drinking much more or is the increase in rose consumption at the cost of other varietals?
Jeez wish I'd thought of that! That is truly excellent support and follow up from the committee... Thank you!